TŪMANAKO
A unique design based on connection.
Organised by a bride-to-be as a gift for her groom, this timepiece is designed to symbolise this couple's relationship, and mirror key design elements of her engagement ring.
His watch and her ring are designed to be viewed as one, reflecting and building on each other, as its owners begin the next phase of their life together as husband and wife.
PHOTOS
SYMBOLISM
This design is based on connection.
Commencing with a cutout in the dial shaped to reference this couple's engagement ring - it symbolises that the ring and the watch fit together like a key in a lock. When separate, neither is complete, and together they connect perfectly.
This symbolism is further supported by the choice of movement, which places the balance wheel (often referred to the as 'heart' of a watch) directly below this ring-shaped cutout. It symbolises their hearts, connected through marriage.
The use of native New Zealand pāua shell is also important. Visually the colour gives reference to the green sapphire within the engagement ring, while in Māori culture the pāua shell symbolises harmony and connectivity in relationships, with green pāua in particular representing growth. Its origin also forever connects the couple to their home in New Zealand, regardless of how far they roam.
Further references intended to connect the couple through these special items of jewellery include: the mix of gold and silver tones; art deco dial pattern; single and double baton markers; and the unique 12 o’clock marker.
Finally, the name of the this timepiece is also significant - Tūmanako is a verb in the Māori language meaning ‘to hope for’ or ‘wish for'. It references a positive future in the couple's new life as husband and wife.
Colours and textures
The overall design includes green, gold and silver elements - tied together with a black backdrop to help these accents stand out.
Her Engagement Ring
This timepiece was designed with many references to her engagmenet ring - connecting into elements such as the green sapphire, the overall shape of the stone setting, the use of gold and silver, and layout of gem claws.
Dial Cutout
The cutout in the watch face is designed to reference the shape of their engagement ring - so that like the couple, the two pieces of jewellery work best together.
Dial pattern
We incorporated an art-deco inspired etching across the dial. The aim of this design element is to reference the art-deco style of her engagement ring, including the vertical lines within the ring, and also create an opportunity for a gold coloured elements on the dial.
Engraved watch crown
The crown includes a custom designed art-deco bird, intended as a reference to the couple's surname.
Depictions of birds mid-flight are also commonly used to symbolise journey and success. Its use here therefore suggests prosperity in their married life.
Index Markers
Polished baton markers are included around the dial, with two markers at the 3, 6 & 9 positions.
The mix of single and double baton markers are a reference to the gem claws visible on the side profile of the engagement ring. Single claws are used for the side diamonds, and double claws for the green sapphire.
12 o'clock marker
A raised art-deco style marker is included at the 12 o'clock position, referencing the similar shape on the side of the engagement ring.
Green Accent
Pāua (pronounced 'Paw uh') is a type of marine shell native to New Zealand. It is well renowned for its vivid and shimmering colours which range from deep greens, to blues and even purples.
The pāua used in this timepiece was sustainability harvested by local communities under oversight of the Pāua Industry Council, to help ensure the resource is appropriately managed for the future.
The vibrant green material is included in the watch to provide a reference to the green sapphire in the engagement ring, the couple's home in New Zealand, as well as Pāua's broader symbolism for relationships and growth within Māori culture.
Case back engravings
The bride-to-be provided a special message that was included as an engraving on the back of the watch in an art-deco inspired font.
The message was kept secret from the groom-to-be as an added surprise.
MOVEMENT
A movement is the centre of every timepiece. This timepiece includes a NH71A skeletonised automatic movement made by Seiko Japan.
To tie into the gold elements on the the couple's engagement ring, the 'gilt' (meaning gold coloured) variant of this movement was used. Small parts of the movement are visible through the dial, and the whole movement is visible through the back of the watch.
This particular movement was selected because of the location of the balance wheel - near the 9 o'clock position. The balance wheel is the oscillating wheel within a mechanical watch. It is the most visually appealing component and usually referred to as the 'heart' of a timepiece.
Twenty-Four Jewels
This refers to the number of rubies embedded into the movement. Rubies are used at pivot points as they have a hardness close to diamond and therefore don't create much friction on cogs and gears.
MOVEMENT FRONT
Skeletonised design
Parts of the metal have been removed to allow you to see more of the movement's internals.
21,600 beats per hour
This is the number of times that the balance wheel rotates when in use.
Automatic movement
The large metal piece on the back is a weight that moves as the watch is worn, keeping the watch powered up. The watch never requires batteries.
MOVEMENT BACK
BUILD
Rough prototypes of the dial and 12 o'clock marker
Laser cut from brass, these were used to help dial in alignment and sizing.
Finished watch hands
Laser etching the custom watch box
NH71A Mechanical Movement + casing ring
Although its not visible from the outside - we also designed and 3D printed a special casing ring, to center the movement into the particular case. This provides us complete control of the movement's position, including mounting points for engraving plate.
Index marker
Pictured on a fingertip to show scale, plus a video to help illustrate the lovely shape and polish.
Prototype dial - assembled
